Susan M. Kleiner, PhD, RD, FACN, CNS, FISSN
If you've read
The Good Mood Diet, or any of my books, you know that fish is one of my favorite Feel-Great foods. It is full of mood-elevating, brain-healthy and heart-healthy omega-3 fats. The protein in fish is also fabulous for muscle building and fat loss. And fat-rich fish are a great source of vitamin D, critical for the support of healthy bones and a healthy mood. Recently, higher rates of breast cancer incidence have been linked with low levels of vitamin D.
Readers also know that there's always a caveat to my praises: choose safe fish. The fish safety story is full of twists and turns and many unanswered questions. Here are the most common questions with answers that are as complete as I can make them at this moment in time.
Are Any Fish Safe to Eat?
The Mercury Problem
A Mercury Solution
The Pesticide Problem
A Pesticide Solution
Tuna Steaks and Sushi
Sushi Bars and Quality
Wild vs. Organic Salmon
Variety Helps
Safe Fish Resouces
Are Any Fish Safe to Eat?
There are two primary concerns with fish safety: contamination with mercury and contamination with pesticides.
The Mercury Problem
The mercury problem is a matter of contaminated waters and food chain hierarchy. Mercury is a by-product of heavy industry and manufacturing. It is released as pollution into the air where it is trapped in the clouds and released in rainwater into the oceans, becoming methylmercury. Methylmercury is a toxin to humans, and poisoning results in neurological disorders in adults. High levels of mercury will harm an unborn baby or young child's developing nervous system. As fish feed in these waters, the mercury builds up in them. The larger and longer-lived the fish, the greater the amount of smaller fish it consumes. Over years the methylmercury builds up in large predatory fish to relatively unsafe levels.
Nearly all fish contain trace amounts of mercury, as do all living things. Large fish, however, like swordfish, shark, tuna, king mackerel and tilefish pose the greatest risks. Some shellfish can also be high in methylmercury based on their very small size, the waters that they feed in and their key food sources. The Unites States Food and Drug Administration and the Environmental Protection Agency warn against eating shark, swordfish, king mackeral and tilefish completely and limiting intake of seafoods containing lower levels of mercury. (See the
Fish Advisory from the EPA for details).
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A Mercury Solution: Buying Safe and Nutritionally Superior Tuna
What the advisory doesn't tell you is that there are sources of non-contaminated tuna available from independently owned fishing vessels that sail out of the Pacific Northwest. These fishers troll-catch small tuna - fish weighing 7 to 12 pounds versus the 40- to 70-pound fish caught by the longlining large commercial canneries. In addition, the large commercial canneries process the tuna out in the ocean and boil off the wonderful omega-3 fats. They throw the omega-3 oils overboard into the ocean! (One major cannery now has their own omega-3 fat supplement; they take it out of the fish and bottle it.)
Independent fishers, however, catch small tuna. They flash-freeze and can the fish with all their healthy fats intact. The fish are virtually mercury-free due to their small size and the waters where they are caught. These fishers are also very environmentally responsible, catching only tuna with no sea turtle or other by-catch, and fishing within sustainable catch sizes. You get a delicious tuna with all the healthy fat and none of the mercury. The large nationwide canneries can't say that about their products. (See NOTE for resources.)
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The Pesticide Problem
The other major concern about fish is pesticide contamination. This is particularly a problem in the farmed salmon industry. Wild salmon are born in the cold rivers that run from Alaska to California. After hatching they make their way to the ocean where they grow into mature fish, then return to their natal rivers to spawn. Most of the wild salmon is caught in a short period in the late spring through the summer when the fish migrate back from the oceans to the rivers. This natural life process produces a lean, high-quality protein fish that is high in vitamins D and E and omega-3 fatty acids.
Contrary to the lives of wild salmon, farm-raised salmon are raised in an industrialized and contained habitat that allows for mass production. They are fed an artificial diet made up of small fish that are ground up into fishmeal. An artificial dye is added to the fishmeal to give the fish the pinkish hue that they will not naturally develop since the color comes only from consuming the same diet as wild salmon.
Pollutants get into farmed salmon through the small fish used in the fishmeal. Pollutants, such as factory runoff, enter the habitat of small fish. The small fish absorb the pollutants and then are highly concentrated in the fishmeal. When the fishmeal is fed to the farmed salmon, the pollutants are stored in the salmon's fat.
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A Pesticide Solution: Buying Wild Salmon
A study examining 700 salmon from around the world analyzed them for more than 50 contaminants. The greatest difference between farmed and wild salmon was in the organochlorine compounds, and particularly the cancer-causing polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), dieldrin and toxaphene. Farmed salmon in Europe had the highest levels, followed by those from North America. Farm-raised Chilean salmon were the cleanest.
The authors stated the concern that eating more than one meal of farmed salmon per month may hike the risk of cancer. Then they got down to specifics. You can safely eat:
| Source of salmon |
Serving and frequency |
Farm-raised...
|
Scotland and Faroe Islands Canada and Maine Chile and Washington State
| 2 oz. per month 4 oz. per month 8 oz. per month |
| Wild Salmon |
64 oz. per month (1 pound per week) |
Note for pregnant women: These recommendations are based on how much salmon is safe to eat for the average person. Advice for pregnant women is still under debate. These pollutants can damage the developing endocrine system, immune system and brain. The compounds build up in body fat and linger there for decades - where they can be passed to a woman's fetus during pregnancy or fed to the baby through breast milk. Farmed salmon in the diets of women of child-bearing age are a definite concern.
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Tuna Steaks and Sushi? Safe or Not?
All types of longline caught (the most common method of catching these fish) albacore tuna, bigeye tuna (also known as ahi) and yellowfin tuna are considered high sources of mercury, regardless of whether they are canned or served as steaks or sushi. If you eat just a piece or two of tuna sushi every once in a while, then this shouldn't be a problem. But if you make tuna sushi your meal twice a week, your mercury levels may be high.
Bluefin and skipjack tunas are considered safe for health but the longline fishing technique is considered unsafe for the environment. Longline fishing leads to overfishing of the waters and high levels of by-catch, catching sea turtles, sea birds, sharks and occasionally marine mammals. Tuna caught by hand-polling or trolling are considered the most environmentally safe fishing methods.
Skipjack tuna is typically the "light" canned tuna, and this is why it has been considered safer to eat "light" tuna. However, a Chicago Tribune investigation uncovered information that "light" tuna sometimes contains yellowfin tuna, which is significantly higher in mercury, but it isn't labeled as such.
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Sometimes I think certain sushi bars serve inferior quality fish. How do they hide it?
One easy way to disguise less-than-top-quality tuna is to mix it with other ingredients. The spicy tuna roll is notorious in the sushi industry for exactly this reason. There are also methods to make the fish look fresher than it really is. "Gassing" or "smoking" tuna is a way to make it look rosier than it is. Fish that is not processed using very high quality methods can naturally lose its redness after death, even with freezing. After the tuna is butchered into loins or filets and before it is frozen, it is exposed to carbon monoxide. The gas binds with hemoglobin to prevent any change in the flesh from red to brown or even to gray. This misrepresents the product to the consumer, making it difficult to evaluate the age of the fish based on the color of the flesh.
While we hope that you get what you pay for, price is not always an indicator of the quality of the fish in a sushi restaurant. Here are a few tips to help you guide you:
- Fresh fish is rarely delivered on the weekend. Rule out Sundays and Mondays when considering a sushi restaurant meal.
- Fresh never means fishy. You should never know by walking in the door with your eyes closed that the restaurant serves fish. If there's a fishy smell, walk out.
- If it looks too good... while fresh fish should be translucent and shiny, if the tuna looks like it was painted red it may have been gassed. Ask the chef if it has been smoked. If so, don't eat it.
- Busy is better. A busy restaurant will have a higher turnover and fresher fish.
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Isn't wild salmon expensive? Can I buy organic salmon instead?
Wild salmon is definitely more expensive than farm-raised salmon. But it's well worth the price when you consider the risks involved and the benefits of eating salmon. But you do have some choices. During the salmon fishing season you should be able to find half-fish filets of wild salmon at the large warehouse stores like Costco. I buy 5 pounds at a time, cut it into portions and freeze it. Salmon will stay fresh in a frost-free freezer for at least 6 weeks, as long as it is well sealed.
There is still no definitive word on organic labeling of fish. The U.S. government does not control "organic" labeling standards for fish like other organic foods.
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Variety Helps
Finally, remember that there are many fish that contain omega-3 fats besides tuna and salmon. Sardines, anchovies, black cod, catfish and shrimp are all excellent sources of omega-3 fats. And any fish has more omega-3 fats than a hot dog!
Safe Fish Resouces
- www.montereybayaquarium.com
The Seafood Watch program provides a guide that can help you make safe choices that are good for you and good for the oceans.
- www.gotmercury.org
Gotmercury.org is part of Turtle Island Restoration Network's efforts to protect the environment and the public from mercury. It has a mercury calculator tool that takes the mystery out of which seafood is safe to eat with regard to the presence of mercury in certain species of seafood and allows consumers to make informed choices about eating seafood.
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